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It's hip, it's cool,
it's cutting edge, it's confusing! What
else can you say about Mission Arts and Media area, the multi-named
millennial Mecca for the creative and inventive? Called everything
from "No Name Gulch", to "Audio Gulch", to "New Media Gulch"
by The San Francisco Chronicle, the Bay Guardian and San Francisco
Weekly (and even, mistakenly, "Potrero," by some), this six
block area surrounded by SOMA, Potrero Hill, Inner Mission,
Mission Dolores, Noe Valley and Bernal Heights begs a definitive
name! Finally, we'll call it Mission Arts and Media Gulch of
NEIMA (North East Inner Mission Area) where you're no more than
a Razor scooter ride from a multi-culti multitude of attractions
and contradictions. It's San Francisco's ever-evolving neighborhood,
a business, cultural and artistic Mecca supporting a melange
of the city's oldest and newest cultures.
In its midst is Franklin Square Lofts, situated
diagonally across from Franklin Square Park to the northeast
and Project Artaud's artist community to the west. Recently
transformed from an industrial site to a hotbed of activity
with its audio and high tech companies, photographic, industrial
design, and arts organizations and studios, multi-media businesses,
live/work loft complexes, a small private theater, and a rock
climbing gym, the streamlined landscape of Franklin
Square Lofts' NEIMA neighborhood offers outstanding upscale
restaurants and friendly cafes. Walk just two blocks for a gastronomical
treat of whimsical fare at the industrial-yet-plush Gordon's
House of Fine Eats (named by the SF Gate as "one of the top
100 Bay Area restaurants" and "upscale dining for the ascendant
audio mogul" by the SF Chronicle), housed in a 1930s warehouse
with dramatically high ceilings, open kitchen, rotating artwork
and a lively bar. Stay till evening when the place really gets
hopping with live jazz, gospel, country, or bluegrass. Or toast
a corporate coup at the raucous Potrero Brewing Company (Florida
Street) with its industrial-chic bar, dining room and pool tables
and a huge terrace warmed by heat lamps when the San Francisco
sun falls short. Or cruise NEIMA's wide variety of cafés: lounge
on a window-side sofa at the Circadia Coffeehouse (just steps
from Franklin Lofts), where you can linger over latte while
you enjoy internet access or a low-key local jazz ensemble,
sample world-class cuisine at the Universal Café, the neighborhood's
elegantly appointed hideaway where the salads are stellar and
the
seared filet mignon flirts with perfection. Savor the all-you-can-eat
barbecue on Atlas Café's sunny terrace or crash on a cozy couch
with the best yam and tomato sandwich this side of the Mason
Dixon line. Sample sushi to die for at NEIMA's sexy, trendy
Blowfish Sushi to Die For, a sleek high-tech-meets-bamboo space
dominated by space-age lights and animation cells. Or steal
away to watch a practice of the San Francisco Fog Rugby Football
Club, the nation's second multicultural rugby club (and the
only "fog" you'll find in sunny NEIMA!), right at Franklin Square
(16th St. @ Potrero). Join other professionals, artists and
students at the Cell Artist Cooperative (Bryant and 18th) for
a rollicking night of roller skating. Marvel at the neighborhood
talent at any of the myriad galleries and studios the neighborhood
has to offer including the adventurous, risk-taking non-profit
Southern Exposure Gallery (Alabama Street), nominated for Best
Gallery for its artist-friendly, multimedia approach, where
youthful, ragged-around-the-edges multimedia melanges (painting,
sculpture, video, installation) are showcased. Check out the
Four Walls Art Space (16th Street), an up-and-coming
gallery housed in a renovated fire house, replete with the old
station's fire pole holes, multiple windows, and wooden floors.
And, mere steps from the Lofts on Bryant Street, discover the
Melting Point Gallery and The Crucible Steel Gallery, a project
of CELL (Collectively Explorative Learning Labs) where the CELL's
own artists, neighborhood youth, and the public display everything
from video, film, and photography to fine art, sculpture, and
puppets. Attend one of its lectures, panel discussions, and
poetry readings. Or make the short sprint to Pretzel's Yoga
(Carolina St.) where the audio gulch alleyites go to unwind.
Quieter than most, Franklin Square Lofts enjoys accessibility
complemented by privacy, the stimulation of the street with
the inspiration of the arts. Work, play, work out or sleep in.
This is really living in Franklin Square Lofts.
To the north of NEIMA are SOMA (South of Market),
South Park, Multimedia Gulch - San Francisco's most up-to-the-nanosecond
destinations. SOMA's history is as varied as it is salty. The
SOMA of today would be virtually unrecognizable to an early
20th century time traveler: first, the earthquake and fire of
1906 devoured most of its vulnerable wooden structures so few
pre-fire buildings remain. Then, the 20's brought the return
of industry and inexpensive workers' housing while flophouses,
liquor stores, second-hand stores, and a vocal Socialist movement
distinguished the 30's. Fast forward to the 60's and 70's when
bars, bathhouses, and back alleys were at their height. The
80's brought an influx of artists and computer nerds. Today,
trends are being set as we speak. It's a New Media Mecca with
a New York-meets-Venice Beach ambience. Shirtless skateboarders
whiz along the palm-tree-lined waterfront
past hipsters in basic black with headsets, palm pilots and
the ever-present cup of Peets coffee. Underground comic book
publishers compete for warehouse space with comically-named
dotcoms. Fine arts flourish in SOMA's museum/ arts district
where the Museum of Modern Art and the Yuerba Buena Center,
a new $2 billion complex including an ice-skating rink and children's
museum, cutting edge shopping, fabulous dining, a 15-screen
cinema with an Imax theater, the five-acre Esplanade Garden
atop the Moscone Convention Center, a children's carousel and
more, make this area a virtual sensory celebration. Looking
to indulge just two of your senses? Try the Flower Market Cafe
where an omelet, coffee, and first dibs on the freshest flowers
to be found in the city are yours for the asking. And imagine
living this close to PacBell Park, the new 13-acre $255 million
home of the San Francisco Giants. Now walk two blocks and look
for multimedia up-and-comers Looksmart, Wired magazine, and
others in any of the stunningly renovated warehouses in South
Park, a.k.a. Multimedia Gulch. A cybercity in itself, this neighborhood
supports a booming population of the dotcommed and hip while
maintaining street names of 20th century luminaries like South
Park native Jack London. Gone are the machine
shops, garages and run-down warehouses of yesterday-- today
it's architectural firms, smart new microbreweries, tree-lined
streets and luxury condos. Here is where both the unplugged
and the connected work and play: browse a gallery, sample world-class
cuisine, elbow-rub with multimedia whiz kids at the latest IPO
party! From the leather men of Folsom Street to the techies
of South Park to the oddly Miami-esque South Beach to the crack
of a bat at PacBell, variety is the spice of SOMA.
To the east, built upon one of
the gentler sloping hills in the city, hovering over SoMa and
the Mission District, is Potrero Hill. Those nostalgic for San
Francisco's Barbary Coast days of farms, forests and sand dunes
will delight in its name, derived from the Spanish word for
"colt", conjuring visions of horse-grazed pastures. Today, this
smart, quaint hillside enclave promises wondrous views of downtown,
a robust dotcom economy, a variety of topnotch restaurants and
a plethora of shopping opportunities. Its thriving neighborhood
community of solid middle and upper-middle class single professionals
and families occupy festive Victorians, adobe-styled, stucco
homes in pretty pastels or mid-70s Bauhaus style abodes framed
by friendly local businesses. Refurbished warehouses provide
a lively alternative for both private residences and businesses.
Grown-ups enjoy baseball, basketball and tennis at the Potrero
Recreational Center while kids swing or skateboard and dogs
frolic after Frisbees at nearby McKinley Park. Catch a show
at the Potrero Hill Neighborhood House Multi-ethnic Theatre
or a course at The American College of Traditional Chinese Medicine.
Locals frequent the neighborhood's mellow pubs and restaurants,
patronize its generous produce and whole food markets, cafes,
and coffee shops. The northwest quadrant offers a variety of
furniture stores, antique dealers, auto-body shops, and design
firms. Impressive all, but Potrero Hill's claim to fame is probably
its Vermont Street, undeniably the "crookedest street" in San
Francisco, with its six hairpin turns and its 14.3% grade. Sunny
Portrero Hill: small and progressive, warm and a bit crooked,
and always welcoming. The Inner Mission district itself has
always been the city's melting pot, a fun mix of the chaotic
and colorful, and it continues to boil as the old-media muralists
and the new-media netniks struggle to share this rapidly-changing
area. Settled by immigrants of every stripe - Irish and Italians
driven from other areas of the City by the 1906 quake, Mexicans
and Central Americans fleeing revolution and oppression, artists
and bohemians in search of affordable rent, dotcoms and techies
drawn to the music and arts scene - the Mission remains one
of San Francisco's most vibrant neighborhoods. Its rich history
is written on its walls, where hundreds of murals adorn buildings
from Balmy Alley to the BART station at 24th Street, and on
the faces of its eclectic residents. You'll find both dogs and
do-gooders at Dolores Park, where San Francisco's legendary
political protests often begin or end. The Mission's restaurants
and clubs are as diverse as its population, from burrito joints
and tapas bars to upscale bistros and trendy night spots. Whether
it's snacking on plantains or papayas in the open market, perusing
paperbacks in the Middle Eastern bookstore, or a paella picnic
in the park, the Mission never fails to please.
To the west lies Mission Dolores, named for
San Francisco's oldest structure, dating from 1776 when it was
established by Spanish San Franciscans as one of 21 missions
set a day's travel apart along the California coast. Visitors
to this squat building, dwarfed by the towers of the neighboring
Mission Dolores Basilica, walk its crude tile floors between
thick adobe walls to see the brightly painted Baroque altar
under a breathtaking ceiling covered with earth-toned chevron
designs. On the south side lies a small crowded cemetery where
both the famous (Don Luis Antonio Arguello, first governor of
California) and the infamous (James P. Casey, murderer of the
crusading newspaper editor James King of William) are buried.
The surrounding area offers generous tree-lined streets coupled
with the convenience of stores and eateries on nearly every
corner. Also to the west is the comparatively tranquil, charming
Noe Valley, described by Zippy the Pinhead cartoonist Bill Griffith
as an "urban mall" for java junkies who enjoy the luxury of
a home office. Once occupied by expansive sheep and cattle ranches,
today's Noe Valley is one of San Francisco's most bucolic neighborhoods:
impressive residences only briefly interrupted by tony boutiques,
a few banks, eclectic eateries and a post office. Middle class
and liberal, its residents enjoy the safety and security of
a small town where "everybody knows your name" and sidewalk
strolls turn social in seconds. South of Portrero Hill lies
Bernal Heights. Looking for a date? How about some locally produced
honey? Find these and more any time of year at the Bernal Heights
Farmers' Market. This shamefully sunny, middle-class neighborhood
of 25,000 offers a variety of remodeled, single-family, owner-occupied
homes at shockingly reasonable prices. Its lovely Queen Anne
cottages and 19th century bungalows fronted by beautifully maintained
lawns, complemented by a community alive with activism and ethnic
diversity, make this a most desirable place to live. Sick of
overdevelopment? The Guardian calls Bernal Heights "the city's
last great neighborhood;" credit a formidable community resistance
to chain stores and strip malls for its enviable small village
flavor. Bernal Heights prides itself on its eclectic, community-minded
independent spirit, and its friendly and diverse population
of all ethnicities and lifestyles. Here, shopkeepers greet their
customers by name. The playground bustles with regulars. Folks
crowd the avenue on a warm night to network or mingle and chat.
Blink twice and you're Downtown, it's that easy. Or stay in
Bernal Heights: take in its awesome views, browse the music
stores or arts and crafts shops, toss back a cold one or schmooze
over sushi at one of its many local bars and restaurants, meet
and greet dogs walking their humans in Holly and Bernal Heights
parks or uncover a treasure at Sunday morning's massive flea
market. |
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